THE SCENE: Aesthetically, the transformation of N’awlins-inspired Carmine’s into Euro-chic Verdad is fairly subtle. Vibrant shades of maize and burnt sienna still set the rear dining room aglow, and the addition of soft, flowing sheers soften the wrought iron “entrance” and enhance the transition to a quieter space.
In the bar area, new artwork has been added to the walls, and the ceiling is coppered. The exposed brick wall is a holdover from Carmine’s, as is the roomy bar. But now, a deep-black wall frames the cushy booths.
THE FOOD: Chef/partner Nick Farina’s passion for tapas-style dining began to show at Blush, where his small-plate specials allowed him to experiment more freely in the kitchen while broadening customers’ palates. Blush’s more traditional format, however, wasn’t so easy to dismantle.
At Verdad, Farina has what he’s always wanted—a broad menu influenced by Spanish, Cuban, Brazilian and Mexican cuisines, laid out in enticing groupings, most offering six dishes priced within a few dollars of one another. The house-made chips with guacamole and habanero salsa, the charcuterie plate, and the artisinal cheese board are all great starting points for larger parties. Items like the oysters and the figs might be better enjoyed by one.
Symmetrically plated, the Brie-topped figs satisfied with their soft centers. But the cheese wasn’t quite ripe and failed to envelope the fruit with the anticipated creaminess. Still, the accompanying bed of microgreens with balsamic reduction was savory enough.
I thoroughly enjoyed the generous bowl of Prince Edward Island mussels with (barely perceptible) tequila, smoky chorizo, al dente black beans, chopped tomatoes, and diced green pepper and onion. The supple mussels were swimming in a robust, velvety broth. The only thing missing was an aioli-slathered crostini.
A unanimous favorite was the lamb—two glistening chops with crimson centers, fanned out over a tidy pile of perfectly seasoned patatas bravas (crisp potato cubes) and adorned with an over-easy fried egg. And the fish tacos—filled with tilapia, slaw, sweet soy, chili-infused soy and guacamole—had a nice snap to them, but they left me craving more. Too modest for $9—and too tidy.
I was confused by the Kobe tacos—a novel idea underwhelmingly presented in pre-fab mini taco bowls, the beef overcooked and smothered in congealed cheese. Frankly, this dish would’ve been just as good with top-quality ground beef. The salty meat contrasted nicely with the chopped dates, spicy jalapeños, tart lime and cool, creamy guacamole.
We rounded out our meal with the rich espresso molten chocolate cake, made with espresso beans, hazelnut helado and crème anglaise. Dense, moist bites delivered a mocha wallop, and the warm, gooey chocolate center and crunchy hazelnuts sent the whole thing over the top.
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THE EXPERIENCE: For months prior to Carmine’s reincarnation, the place had all the energy of a restaurant close to death. These days, it’s much livelier and (thus far) more crowded, breathing new life into what’s always been a comfortable and convenient location. Lunches are still quiet, but perfect for anyone looking for a bit of solitude.
The well-dressed, high-energy, wine-savvy bartenders bring their own buzz to Verdad—and they mix up some pretty darn good cocktails as well. Feeling daring, I tried “The Fog That Surrounds,” a spicy, smoky, dirty martini made with Ketel One vodka and harissa. Intriguing—and the pour was more than generous.
Management was friendly and inquisitive about our dining experience—though never overly intrusive. Our food arrived at an appropriate pace, which is a more impressive achievement at a tapas-style restaurant than its conventional three-course counterpart. Both at the bar and in the dining room, service was affable and adept. And from a value standpoint, the portions were in line with prices (at least for the tapas items).
Décor wise, Verdad isn’t looking to compete with the higher-drama, higher-concept restaurants in the area. That makes it an ideal spot to take in some hassle-free nourishment and conversation. Being able to pop in while meandering along Lancaster Avenue lends to its casual yet sophisticated ambiance.
Granted, our meals weren’t perfect, but the potential for improvement looms large, simply because the concept and menu are so approachable and flexible. Verdad works just as well for a couple looking for an elaborate meal as it does for a group of pals out to throw down a flight of tequila, savor a few nibbles, and move on. Without question, the exuberant staff knows how to accommodate all comers—and enjoys doing it.
THE SKINNY: Verdad opened in August—typically a slow month for restaurateurs (unless, of course, you’re at the Shore). Apparently, though, the restaurant has shown plenty of promise, with a steady flow of customers from day one.
Farina had originally intended to keep the more upscale Blush open. But after seeing all the immediate positives in Verdad, he opted to “put everything into a living situation” and close his former digs.
“It’s amazing what two blocks can do,” says Farina. “The bad economy was like the flu, but the road closing [on Merion Avenue] was a cancer.”
Unlike Blush—which found itself pegged as a pricey special-occasion spot because of its high-end décor, plus its sophisticated, eclectic and equally upscale menu and wine list—Verdad aims to be all things to all people. And while its exceptional visibility along Lancaster Avenue means more walk-ins, it’s the lower prices that Farina hopes will translate into repeat business.
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Small plates are fun both inside the kitchen and out. Farina is free to spice things up and assemble unexpected combinations that might be too much in an entrée, but just right for a few forkfuls. It also allows for a few extravagances, though not at the diner’s expense.
And from the looks of things, it appears Verdad patrons are enjoying the novelty of tequila flights grouped into themes (brand, region, price), not to mention the moderately priced bottles of Spanish, Latin American and South American wine—all priced under $60. Farina strays from the Euro-Latin concept only in the draft beer selection, which highlights our great local breweries more than anything else.
Presumably, a single diner should be able to leave Verdad satisfied for about $35. That’s quite possible if you stay away from the large plates, which range in price from $28 to $42 and likely exist as an option for those who fear they won’t be able to build an adequate meal out of the small items. But just seeing those higher prices on the menu may cloud perceptions of Verdad being an affordable dining experience.
My advice to Farina: If you’re going to go small, dive in with both feet.
DETAILS: VERDAD
Location: 818 W. Lancaster Ave., Bryn Mawr, (610) 520-9100
Cuisine: Euro-Latin tapas
Cost: $4-$21 for small plates, $28-$42 for large plates
Attire: Casual
Atmosphere: Relaxed yet sophisticated; lively weekend vibe
Hours: Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 5-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 5-9 p.m. Sunday. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday.
