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Karim Enhaili prepares bananas Foster tableside at Vickers. (Photo by Heidi Reuter)In a restaurant climate characterized by trendy fare and dramatic décor, Vickers’ polished service, starched white tablecloths, Old World continental cuisine and classic cocktails all combine for a welcomed dose of fine dining tradition. The Exton institution changed hands in October, taken over again by Arturo Burigatto, the owner from 1972 to 1999. Guests have witnessed the return of Burigatto’s specialty hors d’oeuvres, dessert carts, and tableside flambé (steak Diane, sirloin au Poivre, Dover sole, crêpes Suzette and bananas Foster).

From the moment we settled into our cozy corner table near the roaring gas fireplace, the service was spot-on, and a nearby steak Diane preparation—fragrant with Dijon mustard and brandy—left us swooning. By meal’s end, we’d enjoyed escargot swaddled in a bold, velvety white wine, garlic and herb sauce; massive oysters Rockefeller with chunks of crisp bacon and a blanket of chopped spinach; lightly dressed, crisp mountains of field greens and spinach; medallions of sautéed veal and lobster tail; brawny, pepper-encrusted sirloin au Poivre; and a grand finale of bananas Foster in all its flaming (if not fully caramelized) glory.

Our table was undoubtedly one of the best in the house, but we would’ve been just as happy at the bar—a handsome, warm space with dark woods, worn brick floors, a trio of oak barrels turned into art, and rustic but sophisticated chandeliers. On weekends, the baby grand piano comes to life, and you can enjoy the same lavish fare—only with a little less formality.

192 E. Welsh Pool Road, Exton; (610) 363-6336, vickersrestaurant.com.

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