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EPICURE: Off the Line at Bluefin in Plymouth Meeting

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Stellar Blue

Located in a string of stores just past Plymouth Meeting Mall, Bluefin has a curb appeal that’s so minimal I actually drove right past it. Inside, though, there’s definitely some sparkle. A soothing blue shade dominates the simple interior, which has a large sushi bar and a dozen or so white (and occasionally green) linen-topped tables.

We began with a round of spicy tuna sundaes (pictured)—a generous portion of spicy tuna sashimi tossed with spicy Japanese mayo, avocado, cashews and flying fish roe—presented in martini glasses. Next up was the Marlee roll—spicy yellow tuna, regular tuna and roe—and the Davitch, salmon and spicy tuna with tempura crunch and scallions and roe on top. A platter of sashimi featured pieces of fresh, sweet and enormous salmon, sea bass and hamachi that melted on contact. The lobster tempura hand rolls were notable as much for their crispy nori wrappers as for the large pieces of Brazilian lobster tail tucked inside. The meat was tender, but the tempura coating was a tad dense and soggy (regulars said they’ve had better at Bluefin).

For “dessert,” we indulged in a spicy tuna sandwich—four nori-wrapped triangles packed with coarsely cut chunks of tuna and spicy mayo (like an uncooked tuna burger) and dipped in Bluefin’s signature tempura crunch. A plate of cantaloupe, orange sections and tempura bananas practically put us into a food coma.

1017 Germantown Pike, Plymouth Meeting; (610) 277-3917, sushibluefin.com.