Photo by Ed Williams.
A light rub of rice flour provides just the right crispness and protects the delicate moistness of this gluten-free river-to-table catch. Oven-roasted Roma tomatoes add tanginess, and fennel pollen gives a perfect intensity to the bed of almond crema and sautéed leeks. This one pairs exquisitely with the vibrant fruitiness of a Spanish Albariño. $20.
39 W. Lancaster Ave., Ardmore, www.localwineandkitchen.com, (610) 896-4740.