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TiraMisu Cucina Romana in Berwyn Review: This BYO Restaurant Is More Than Just Desserts

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Roman Jewish artichokes cooked in olive oil. Tiny and unassuming, TiraMisu is easy to miss—but you should make it a point not to. Chef/owner Sean Delbello’s family owns Center City’s Il Portico and Manayunk’s Il Tartufo, and the Roman Jewish cuisine that defines his new Berwyn eatery is at once soulful and satisfying.

Delbello stresses that his BYOB isn’t kid-friendly. He’s right. The candlelit environs are best suited to intimate dinners with friends or a loved one.

If you can make it past the baskets heaped with Italian bread and warm flatbread (doused with olive oil, rosemary and herbs), generously portioned, reasonably priced pasta, seafood and meat dishes await. For a strong starter, try the warm, homemade mozzarella topped with roasted peppers, basil, tomatoes and olive oil. The large bowl of juicy mussels and clams (a steal for $7.95) in a fragrant seafood broth is culinary simplicity at its most sublime.

Our house-made fettuccine arrived from the kitchen partially obscured by a cloud of aromatic steam, the artichokes, mushrooms and herbs clinging to the delicate strands. A bright tomato sauce held the dish together beautifully.

The paper-thin scallopini of veal was melt-in-your-mouth tender, enhanced by a velvety sauce made with Marsala wine and black truffles. Served with a cushiony triangle of truffle-scented polenta and fresh vegetables, it was a memorable dish. A close second was the signature tiramisu—ample enough for sharing but so decadent you’ll want it all for yourself.

720 Lancaster Ave., Berwyn; (610) 906-3299, tiramisuberwyn.com.

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