Move Over Chef Perrier

 

Chef Aliza Green’s Menu

To be prepared tonight, Jan. 14, at georges’ in Wayne:

• Flammekueche (Alsatian Leek and Bacon Tart)
• Salt Cod Bouillabaisse with Croûtes and Rouille
• Wood-Oven-Roasted Wild Mushroom Salad with Caramelized Shallots and Black Truffle Oil
• Veal Medallions with Morels and Sweetbread Tidbits
• Braised Tuscan Kale
• Tuscan Bitter Chocolate–Hazelnut Torta with Pears
• Red Wine and Cinnamon-Poached Pears
• Hazelnut Anglaise Sauce

The event begins at 7 p.m. For more information, click here.
 

“Flammekueche” Alsatian Leek and Bacon Tart

Makes 2 tarts (8-12 servings)

• 1â„2 lb. double-smoked thick bacon, cut into 1-inch slices
• 1 tbsp. unsalted butter
• 1 1â„2 pounds onions, thinly sliced
• 3â„4 cup fromage blanc
• 1â„2 cup sour cream
• 1â„2 cup heavy cream
• 2 egg yolks
• 1 1â„2 pound whole wheat brioche dough (recipe below)
• Kosher salt, grated nutmeg, ground white pepper, and cayenne pepper, to taste
• Cornmeal or semolina, for sprinkling

Method:

Preheat the oven to 500°F. about 45 minutes before baking. In you have one, place a pizza stone in the oven when you first begin to preheat.

In a large skillet, cook the bacon until limp and about half the fat has been rendered out. Remove the bacon and reserve. Pour off most of the fat. Add the butter and the onions and sauté until golden brown, about 10 minutes, and reserve. Lightly beat together the fromage blanc, sour cream, heavy cream, egg yolks and seasonings and reserve.

Roll the dough and then pull out by hand into 2 long, tongue-shaped tarts.

If you’re using a baker’s peel, sprinkle it with cornmeal or semolina. Arrange one tongue-shaped dough piece on the peel. Alternatively, roll out the dough into 2 long tongue shapes and transfer them to a cornmeal-dusted metal baking pan (a paella pan works well here).

Spread the dough with half the cream mixture, then sprinkle  with half the browned onions. Finish by sprinkling with half of the bacon. If you’re using the peel, transfer the tart to the stone by placing the peel at a low angle to the stone and giving the peel a fast, vigorous thrust forward and then back, so that the tart jumps onto the stone. If you’re using pans, simply place them in the oven. Repeat with second tart.

Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the top is bubbling and brown and the crust is golden. Remove from oven and cut down the middle and then into 8 slices each, and serve immediately.

Whole-Wheat Brioche Dough
Makes 2 3â„4 pounds dough

• 1 package (2 1â„4 teaspoons) active dry yeast
• 2 tbsp. honey
• 2 tsp. kosher salt
• 1 lb. (4 cups) bread flour, divided
• 1 cup (5 to 6) lightly beaten eggs
• 3â„4 lb. (3 sticks) unsalted butter, cut up and softened
• 1â„4 lb (1 cup) whole-wheat flour
 
Method:

In the bowl of a mixer, make a sponge by dissolving the yeast in 1â„2 cup warm water and then, using the paddle, beating in the honey, salt, and 1â„4 pound (1 cup) of the bread flour. Allow the sponge to double in volume before continuing.

Using the dough hook, beat the eggs into the sponge, and then beat in the remaining 3â„4 pound (3 cups) of the bread flour, beating well until the dough is smooth and silky-looking, but still sticky. Beat in the butter until it has been completely absorbed. Now beat in the whole-wheat flour to form a medium-soft dough that comes away cleanly from the sides of the bowl

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and allow it to rise until doubled in volume. Punch down, cover, and chill dough until firm enough to roll out (or chill overnight).
 

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Salt Cod Bouillabaisse

Serves 6

Croûtes
• 1â„4 cup olive oil
• 1 tbsp. finely minced garlic
• 1â„2 loaf country-style bread, cut into 1â„2-inch thick slices

Method:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Combine the olive oil and minced garlic in a small bowl. Brush both sides of the bread slices with the oil-garlic mixture. Spread out onto a single layer on a baking sheet. Bake 10 minutes, or until lightly browned. Turn over and bake 5 minutes longer. Remove from oven and reserve.

Rouille
Makes about 3 cups (24 servings)

• 1 vine-ripened tomato
• 1 red bell pepper
• 1/4 cup strained fumet
• A pinch each saffron and cayenne pepper
• 1 slice firm white bread, crust removed
• 5-8 garlic cloves
• 3 egg yolks
• 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 3/4 cup olive oil
• Salt, freshly ground black pepper, and cayenne pepper to taste
 
Method:

Roast the tomato and bell pepper on a grill, over an open flame, or under a preheated broiler, turning to blacken all sides. When tomato is browned and softened, remove it from the heat using a metal spatula and let cool. When the skin of the pepper is black, place the pepper in a plastic or paper bag, close it, and let sit until the pepper is cool enough to handle, approximately 5 minutes. Peel the skin from the pepper and discard the seeds and stem. Cut the tomato in half crosswise, then spoon out the seeds.

Place the fumet in a medium bowl, mix in the saffron and cayenne, and soak the slice of bread in the fumet for several minutes until it is very soft. Crush the garlic to a paste in a mortar. Using a whisk, beat the egg yolks and garlic into the bread. Mix the olive oil together and begin whisking into the egg mixture, a few drops at a time, until it emulsifies. Continue to whisk in the oil in a fine stream until a thick mayonnaise is formed.

Make a puree of the roasted pepper and tomato in a large mortar and stir it into the mayonnaise. Season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
 

Bouillabaisse
• 1 red onion, diced
• 1 fennel bulb, trimmed and diced
• 2 carrots, diced
• 1 tbsp. finely chopped garlic
• 1â„4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 large gold potatoes (about 1â„2 pound) peeled and cut into thick slices
• 2 tsp. chopped fresh, or 1â„2 teaspoon dried thyme
• 2 bay leaves
• 2 teaspoons grated orange zest
• 1 (28-ounce) can chopped plum tomatoes (or Pomi)
• 1â„2 cup dry white vermouth
• 1â„4 cup Pernod (optional)
• 4 cups water
• 1 1â„2 lbs. salt cod fillet, cooked and flaked 
• Kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper, and hot red pepper flakes to taste

Method:

In a large soup pot, cook the onion, fennel, carrots, and garlic in the oil until the onion is softened but not browned. Add the potatoes, thyme, bay leaves, and orange zest and toss. Add the tomatoes, vermouth, Pernod, and water. Bring the mixture to the boil, then reduce heat to medium and cook until the potatoes are almost tender. Add the flaked fish and gently heat together. Spread each croûte with Rouille. Lay a slice of toasted bread in each of 4 large soup plates, and ladle the bouillabaisse over top.
 

Continued on page 3 …

 

Warm Roasted Wild Mushroom Salad with Balsamic Syrup

Serves 6

Balsamic Syrup
• 1â„2 cup brown sugar, packed
• 1 cup balsamic vinegar
• 2 tbsp. honey

Method:

Combine all ingredients in a medium, heavy-bottomed pot, bring to the boil, then reduce heat and simmer until bubbling and thickened to a light syrup, about 10 minutes. Store at room temperature.

Caramelized Shallots
• 1 quart canola oil
• 2 cups sliced shallots

Method:

In a large, deep pot, heat the oil (filled no more than halfway up the sides) to 365°F., or until shimmering hot. Add the shallots a few at a time, stirring as the oil bubbles up, then adding more until all the shallots have been added. Fry over high heat until the shallots are brown and crispy, stirring occasionally, about 15 minutes. Remove from oil using a wire skimmer, and drain on paper towels. Store at room temperature for up to 5 days.

Roasted Mushrooms
• 1â„2 lb. shiitake mushrooms, caps only
• 1 lb. crimini mushrooms, trimmed and quartered
• 1â„2 lb. oyster mushrooms, stems removed and sliced
• 1â„2 lb. portabella mushrooms, quartered
• 3 tbsp. olive oil
• 2 tsp. kosher salt
• 1â„4 tsp. finely ground black pepper
• 1â„2 cup Balsamic Syrup (from above)

Method:

If possible roast in the wood oven. Alternatively, preheat the oven to 450°F. Combine mushrooms with oil, salt, pepper, and syrup. Spread out in a thin layer on a metal baking pan, and roast until well browned, turning once or twice, about 10 minutes.

Mixed Greens with Lemon Dressing
• 2 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1â„4 cup olive oil
• Salt and pepper, to taste
• 3 cups spring mix salad greens

Method:

Whisk together lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper. Toss greens lightly with dressing.
 

To Serve:
Arrange warm roasted mushrooms over mixed greens, top with a spoonful of caramelized shallots and sprinkle with black truffle oil. Serve immediately.
 

Continued on page 4 …

 

Veal Medallions with Morels and Sweetbread Tidbits

Serves 6

Sweetbreads
• 1 lb. calf’s sweetbreads
• 2 tbsp. each: olive oil and unsalted butter
• 1â„4 cup each: chopped carrot, celery, and onion
• 1â„4 cup Madeira
• 2 tbsp. brandy
• 1â„4 cup veal Demi-Glace (recipe below)
 
Method:

Soak the sweetbreads in cold water for 2 to 3 hours, then drain and discard the water. Place the sweetbreads in a sauté pan, cover with cold water, and bring to the boil. Simmer for 5 minutes, then drain and cool. Pull off and discard the outer skin and any hard connective tissue. Wrap the sweetbreads in plastic and place them in a flat dish. Cover with a heavy weight, such as a can of tomatoes, to compress and firm the sweetbreads. Refrigerate overnight.

The next day, in a medium sauté pan, brown the sweetbreads on all sides in olive oil and butter. Add the carrot, celery, and onion and brown together lightly. Add the Madeira and brandy and bring to the boil over high heat. Add the demi-glace, bring back to the boil, and then reduce heat to braise slowly, either on top of the stove or in a 300°F. oven, for about 20 minutes, or until the sweetbreads are firm and the liquid is syrupy.

Allow the sweetbreads to cool in the cooking liquid, then remove from the liquid and pull apart into small nuggets. Strain the cooking liquid and reserve to add to the sauce below.
 

Veal with Morels and Sauce
• 4 tbsp.unsalted butter, divided
• 1â„2 pound fresh morels (substitute 2 ounces dried morels)
• 1 1â„2 lbs. boneless loin of veal, cut into 2-ounce medallions
• 1â„4 lb. (1 cup) all-purpose flour
• 1 tbsp. olive oil
• 2 tbsp.finely chopped shallots
• 1â„2 cup dry white wine
• 1â„4 cup Madeira wine
• 1â„2 cup cooking juices from the sweetbreads above
• Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper to taste

Method:

Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a medium sauté pan. Add the morels and cook, covered, over medium heat, for 6  to 7 minutes, or until firm and the pan juices have mostly evaporated. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

Dust the veal medallions in flour, shaking off the excess. In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet, preferably nonstick, heat 1 tablespoon of butter and the olive oil until sizzling. Sauté the veal on both sides until well browned. (Do not crowd the pan with veal so that it will brown well.) Remove the medallions from the pan and keep warm.

Pour off the fat from the pan and add the shallots, stirring and cooking for 1 minute, or until fragrant. Add the white wine, Madeira, morels, and the sweetbread cooking liquid to the pan and bring to the boil. Cook to reduce the liquid slightly. Season with salt and pepper.

Return the veal medallions and the cooked sweetbread tidbits to the pan to heat. Swirl the remaining tablespoon of butter into the sauce to finish. Arrange the veal medallions on a serving platter, ladle the sauce and a portion of morels and sweetbreads over each serving, and serve immediately.

 
Homemade Demi-Glace
Makes about 1 quart

• 10 lbs. veal marrow bones and, if possible, knuckle bones, cut into 2-inch lengths by the butcher
• 1 large yellow onion, unpeeled
• 2 carrots
• 2 ribs celery
• 2 tomatoes
• 2 tsp. tomato paste
• 1 tsp. black peppercorns
• 2 sprigs fresh thyme
• 1 bay leaf
 
Method:

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Place the bones in a large roasting pan. Roast until deep brown in color, taking care not to burn, which will cause bitterness, about 45 minutes, turning once or twice so the bones brown evenly.

Remove the pan from the oven. Transfer the bones to a large stock pot. Pour off any excess fat from the pan. Add the remaining ingredients to the roasting pan, stir to mix well and place back in the oven to roast for 15 to 20 minutes, or until medium-brown. Remove from the oven, and scrape the contents of the pan into the pot. Add a little water to the roasting pan and heat either in the oven or directly on the stove to melt any brown bits clinging to the pan.

Pour in enough cold water to cover the contents of the pot by about 4-inches and bring to the boil. Skim off any foam that comes to the top and reduce the heat to a bare simmer. Cover partially and simmer slowly overnight, or 12 hours. The next day, strain the liquid into another metal pot or stainless steel bowl and cool to room temperature, preferably by setting the container into a sinkful of ice mixed with water. Refrigerate overnight. The next day, remove and discard the solidified fat. The liquid should be jellied; if not, bring back to the boil and cook down until syrupy before using. Store in the freezer for up to 2 months or refrigerate for up to 2 weeks.
 

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Braised Tuscan Kale

Serves 4

• 2 bunches Tuscan kale
• 3â„4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for garnish
• 3 tbsp. thinly sliced garlic cloves
• 1â„2 cup chicken stock
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
 
Method:

Strip the leaves off their ribs. Wash in a large bowl of lukewarm water, swishing around vigorously. Scoop the leaves from the water, leaving any sand on the bottom, and drain. If the leaves are long, tear into 4- to 5-inch lengths.

In a large skillet or Dutch oven with a lid, heat the olive oil, add the sliced garlic, and cook, stirring, until it sizzles and releases its fragrance. Add the kale and cook, stirring, until it wilts and sizzles in the hot oil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer the leaves until tender, about 10 minutes.

Add the chicken stock and salt to taste and continue to cook until the leaves absorb the liquid and are tender, about 15 minutes longer. Just before serving, drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper.
 

Bitter Chocolate-Hazelnut Torta with Pears

Makes 16 squares

• 1/2 pound bittersweet chocolate,  finely chopped
• 5 ounces (11/4 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into bits
• 1/4 cup dark rum
• 1/2 lb.(11/2 cups) hazelnuts, lightly toasted and skinned
• 1 cup sugar
• 4 large eggs
• 3 firm, but ripe, Bartlett or Bosc pears

Method:

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spray a 9-inch square baking pan, preferably light-colored aluminum, with nonstick baker’s coating, or rub with softened butter and dust with flour, shaking off the excess.

Place the chocolate and butter in a microwaveable bowl and melt in the microwave on lowest power for 2 minutes at a time, or until just barely melted. Whisk until smooth and cool to room temperature. Whisk in the rum and then cool the mixture to room temperature.

Cut the pears in half, vertically, and core them, cut off and discard the tips and ends, and slice them thinly crosswise.

Place the hazelnuts and sugar in the bowl of a food processor and process until fine. Fold into the chocolate mixture, then beat in the eggs. Spoon the mixture into the prepared pan. Stand the pear slices vertically, in a regular pattern, with their skin skin-side out, into the batter, leaving about 1/2-inch of pear showing.

Bake for 25 minutes or until the cake starts to come away from the sides of the pan and the center is set. The batter will still be sticky and soft. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature on a wire rack before cutting into 16 squares.
 

Red Wine and Cinnamon-Poached Pears

Serves 8

• 2 cups dry red wine
• 1â„2 cup granulated sugar
• 1â„2 cup honey
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 cinnamon stick, lightly crushed
• 4 whole cloves
• Juice of 1 lemon
• 8 firm, but ripe, Bartlett or Bosc pears
 
Method:

Combine the wine, sugar, honey, bay leaves, cinnamon, cloves, lemon juice, and 2 cups of water. Bring to the boil in a large, nonreactive pot.

Meanwhile, pare off the skin of the pears, then cut into halves, removing the seed core with a melon baller (or a tomato shark). Place the pear halves in the syrup and bring back to the boil. Reduce heat and gently poach for about 15 minutes, or until pear halves are close to tender when pricked with a skewer.

Remove the pears from the pot and arrange in a glass or ceramic bowl. Pour the poaching liquid into a bowl, wipe out the cooking pot, and strain the poaching liquid back into the pot. Heat to boiling and then reduce to medium heat. Cook the liquid for about 15 minutes, or until it has reduced by about half and is thick and syrupy. Pour the thick syrup over the pears, cool and then serve, or refrigerate for up to 5 days before serving.
 

Continued on page 6 …

 

Hazelnut Anglaise Sauce

Makes 3 cups (10-12 servings)

• 2 cups milk
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 1/4 lb. hazelnuts, lightly toasted and skins rubbed off, finely ground
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split
• 8 large egg yolks
• 3/4 cup sugar
• Pinch flour
• 1/2 tsp. fine sea salt

Method:

Place the milk, cream, hazelnuts, and vanilla bean in a large Pyrex measure or other microwavable container and heat in the microwave until steaming hot. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight or up to 4 days to infuse.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until they are light and fluffy, 5 to 6 minutes. Meanwhile, scald the hazelnut-infused milk in the microwave until steaming hot.

Sprinkle the yolk mixture with the flour and salt, then whisk in a little of the hot milk mixture to temper the mixture. Add the remaining milk mixture and then transfer to a heavy-bottomed pot. Heat over medium heat until the sauce visibly thickens and reads 165°F on a thermometer.

Strain through a fine sieve, pressing well to extract all the liquid and discarding the solids. Serve warm or cold. To store, cool and then refrigerate up to 5 days in a covered container.