Less than a month after Alfredo opened its doors at Trattoria San Nicola’s former Berwyn location, owner Alfredo Giannaccari couldn’t have been happier. “I must say, I’m pleasantly surprised to see so many people here so soon,” he said back in October. “It’s been like this pretty much since we opened, which I never expected.”
Hardly new to the area, Giannaccari and his partners also own the Newtown Grill in Newtown Square and Sole in Stone Harbor, N.J. “But I always wanted a smaller space,” Giannaccari confided. “And I’ve always liked this location.”
That said, Alfredo is lively for its size, with closely arranged tables, exposed brick walls, hardwood floors and jewels of soft light. The menu takes its inspiration from Naples, bolstered by a well-stocked antipasto bar and daily seafood specials. Prices are reasonable by Main Line standards, with entrées under $20 and specials no higher than $24.
On our visit, the potato gnocchi—zephyr-light and blended with fresh mozzarella and an ambrosial tomato sauce—was textbook and then some. A grilled swordfish special—firm and fresh—came with a classic puttanesca sauce, its onions, olives and capers fused in perfect harmony. The house-made bread was warm and fresh.
Desserts are also made in-house. We had the crème brûlée and the tartufo, vanilla and chocolate ice cream rolled in cocoa and hazelnuts—both classics.
668 Lancaster Ave., Berwyn; (610) 640-2962, alfredobyo.com.