Veteran restaurateur Scott Morrison has allied himself with tech investor Vince Schiavone on a mission to bring proper pizza to the Main Line. Devon’s Avéro Craft Pizzeria smartly strad-dles the line between upscale pizza joint and suburban trattoria, its shopping-center facade beaming with burnt-orange awnings that read, “eat,” “drink,” “laugh” and “love.” The focal point of the open kitchen is a copper-clad, wood-burning pizza oven, while the dining area playfully mimics a Tuscan piazza, with strings of lights and brightly colored, oversized umbrellas.
Avéro—which translates loosely to “the truth”—abides by Old World standards: local, seasonal ingredients, hand-pulled mozzarella, house-made meatballs and pasta. You get the idea.
We began with the salumi y burrata—wild boar, tartufo, piccante, Spanish serrano ham, buttery mozzarella, local watermelon, cherries, and rosemary bread—before moving on to our supreme Caesar salads, sprinkled with shaved goat’s-milk ricotta and white anchovy vinaigrette. Soon enough, a rustic but carefully crafted tartufo pizza landed on our table, courtesy of one of the swift but educated servers. The earthy, white pie’s thin, crunchy crust was piled high with farmhouse cheddar, black truffle and fresh mozzarella, and finished with a locally sourced egg cracked on top as it bubbled in the oven.
Pasta selections were on the same enticing level as the artisan pizza—especially the complex, classically dense Kobe Bolognese. Diners can choose from three pastas, but heed our advice and try the pappardelle. You’ll thank us.
As for the classic Italian desserts, we went for a bag of freshly fried cinnamon-sugar bomboloni, plus dipping sauces.
With its manageable prices and well-curated list of grandma-approved options (Italian wines included), Avéro has us hooked. See you next week?
821 W. Lancaster Ave., Devon, (484) 580-6455, averopizza.com.