By Way of India

Tiffin eatery has been all the rage in Center City. Now it’s in Wynnewood and, soon, Bryn Mawr.

Tiffin’s tandoori chickenPlenty of Main Liners had never heard of Tiffin prior to its storefronts popping up in Wynnewood and (soon) Bryn Mawr. But in Center City, this Indian eatery has been a hit for years. It originally began as a delivery service offering healthy options in pre-portioned microwave- and freezer-safe containers. Each day, Tiffin chefs prepare three sets of meals—two entrées, rice, dal, raita and pickles—and customers order via the Web or by phone for pickup or delivery.

Last fall, Tiffin took the concept a step further, offering eat-in dining rooms and an expanded menu. The Wynnewood location has a clean, sleek, upscale feel, with simple black tables and chairs, lots of glass and minimal table décor. June’s fish special—tilapia in a creamy, subtly spicy sauce of mustard seeds, onions, curry leaves, coconut and garlic—was moist and not the least bit overcooked. At $17.50, it was pricey for a lunch item. But when it was reheated a day later, the flavors melded into something more interesting, with more pronounced hints of spice. The masala was brimming with cumin and coriander, generating just the right heat. And the aloo gobi, a Punjabi classic made with potatoes and cauliflower, offered tantalizing splashes of ginger, garlic, onions and cumin.

Bottom line: Great concept, promising food.

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50 E. Wynnewood Road, Wynnewood; (610) 642-3344, tiffin.com.

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