A view of Biga’s woodfired oven//All Photos by Steve Legato.
“I guess I have a thing for four-letter words,” Sean Weinberg says sheepishly.
He’s alluding to the spelling of Alba, the acclaimed Italian-American restaurant he runs in Malvern with his wife, Kelly. The same can now be said of Biga Pizza + Beer, his latest offering. Tucked between Bryn Mawr’s train station and its hospital on an oddball corner that looks a bit like Philly’s Mayfair section, Biga has a no-nonsense vibe that matches its (somewhat) gritty locale.
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From Left: Biga’s Daytripper and Da Bomb pizzasberries; the dining area |
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To expand: Where Alba is a neatly pressed polo shirt, khaki pants and polished loafers, Biga is a black T-shirt, jeans and Chuck Taylors. The 40-seat space is spare—almost garage-like—with red-brick walls and a smattering of wooden tables. A surreal graffiti-sprayed mural is the focal point, while ’80s New Wave and classic rock thrum in the background.
Its name an Italian reference to a basic dough starter, Biga is based around a concept Weinberg credits to chef Steve Fulmer. “Steve fell in love with pizza-making,” Weinberg says. “And we began to see that the area was in need of something you’d find in the city.”
The deliciously yeasty, fire-blistered pies are first cold-fermented in a fridge for up to 36 hours to give the flour dough both crackle and chew. My favorites are the Kingdom—topped with bacon, beer-braised onions and goopy scamorza cheese—and the Leave It to Beav, with speck and wilted spinach. The margherita was also tasty, though its center was a bit too moist.
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From Left: Executive chef Steve Fulmer preps Da Bomb; buttermilk-fried cauliflower, sweet corn, tomato, red onion and cucumber with green goddess dressing - Partner Content -
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Regulars range from families, hospital workers and college students to couples and beer geeks. Like me, they all seemed to enjoy the non-pizza items, as well, from the hearty arancini—deep-fried breaded rice balls with a piping-hot mozzarella center—to an escarole salad proteined out with fresh tuna chunks.
The pastas were also worthy of note—especially the eggy tagliatelle with roasted mushrooms and pancetta, and a delicious lasagna with creamy ricotta. The dessert menu benefits from the decadent artisan gelato of Jenny & Frank’s in Norristown.
At Biga, my own favorite four-letter word is ever-present: beer. Over 60 bottles and cans (and a few hard ciders) are available, along with a rotation of drafts. At heart, though, Biga is a serious pizza joint that doesn’t take itself too seriously.
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Da Bomb, with soppresatta, tomato, mozzarella, basil and Calabrian chiles. |
DETAILS
BIGA pizza + beer
810 Glenbrook Ave., Bryn Mawr, (610) 525-4800.
Cuisine: Neapolitan pizzas, classic salads and a vast beer selection.
Cost: $5-$18.
Attire: Casual.
Atmosphere: Rustically hip.
Hours: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m. Tuesday–Saturday, 1–3 p.m. Sunday. Dinner: 4:30–9 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 4:30-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday, 4:30-8 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday.
Extras: Sidewalk seating; $10 corkage fee waived on Mondays.
