Takumi Takes an Artisanal Approach to Dining in Devon Village

Takumi elevates the Main Line's Asian dining scene.

It’s no coincidence that takumi means “artisan” or “skilled” in Japanese. Yvonne Yang is confident that an artisan’s attention to detail shines through in her latest venture on the Main Line. Yang has already partnered with Eddie Zheng for Qu Japan Bistro & Bar in Philadelphia and the Michelin-recommended Nan Xiang Xiao Long Bao in Cherry Hill, New Jersey. She’s now bringing that well-honed skill set to Devon Village as the general manager of Takumi.

The Lotus Blossom cocktail, garnished with lychee
The Lotus Blossom cocktail, garnished with lychee

Yang has certainly found the right chef to deliver top-of-the-line sushi and sashimi. Larry Jiang trained with Nobu, the world-renowned hospitality group founded by Nobu Matsuhisa, Robert De Niro and Meir Teper. He excels at everything—though his omakase (chef’s choice) service and unique rolls are of particular note.

Takumi’s refined interior
Takumi’s refined interior

We began our visit with a comforting bowl of creamy kimchi udon and the house-fried rice with smoked ham, sautéed shrimp, scrambled egg, string beans, corn and scallions, all topped with a perfectly prepared fried egg. A visual stunner, the salmon tartare—its chunks of fish, avocado, onion and passionfruit enhanced by a sweet-and-spicy dressing of pineapple mayo and yuzu wasabi—tasted as good as it looked. The sashimi dinner box presentation was also superb—18 pieces of high-grade yellowtail, salmon, tuna and catch of the day.

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Salmon tartare
Salmon tartare

By most standards, the sunset roll was basic—but in the best way. Its spicy mayo perfectly offset the salmon, avocado and microgreens. The Real Deal signature roll offered a crunchy kick, with a salmon and avocado filling and toro, king salmon and caviar on top. The deep-fried 821 was an artful assemblage of white fish, avocado, kani and asparagus, topped with tobiko, scallion, eel sauce and spicy mayo.

The Real Deal, topped with caviar.
The Real Deal, topped with caviar.

A selection of over 15 sakes lends an exotic twist to the cocktail list. The Lotus Blossom is a fetching mix of Nigori sake, Tito’s Handmade Vodka, lychee puree and lime juice. We also sampled the Shiso Fantastic, with Junmai sake, Tequila Herradura, yuzu juice, St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur and shiso. Another winner: the Sake to Me Margarita, which combines sake with Libélula small-batch tequila, orange liqueur, peach purée and lime juice.

A colorful array of dishes and cocktails.
A colorful array of dishes and cocktails.
An 18-piece bento box
An 18-piece bento box

The vibe at Takumi conveys a refined warmth. The night we were there, service was excellent, with personable bartenders and a cheery, knowledgeable staff. A wall of artificial honey-colored roses dominates the main dining room, adding a soft touch to the sleek Asian-themed décor. Plenty of warm wood tones and organic freeform light fixtures give the place a date-night appeal.

Creamy kimchi udon
Creamy kimchi udon
A sunset roll
A sunset roll

Cost: $7-$70.

Atmosphere: Asian sleek.

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Hours: 11:30 a.m.–9:30 p.m. Monday–Thursday, 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Friday–Saturday, 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Sunday.

Attire: Casual.

The Shiso Fantastic cocktail.
The Shiso Fantastic cocktail.

Takumi
821 Lancaster Ave., Suite 240, Wayne

(484) 584-4035, takumibistro.com

Related: Where to Get a Great Cup of Hot Chocolate Around the Main Line

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