This past July, Veekoo Asian Cuisine appeared in the Berwyn Shopping Center with little fanfare. Early indications are that it deserves some.
At the sushi bar of this contempo-chic BYOB (one of two—there’s also a Veekoo in Royersford), you’ll find luscious cuts of red snapper, toro, uni and eel. Our sashimi salad was heaped high with white tuna and salmon, hunks of avocado, and mango, all dressed in a terrific wasabi dressing.
The sushi menu balances authenticity and creativity, whether its the salmon roe served on an icy boat or the generously packed lobster-avocado-cucumber roll crowned with creamy crab salad. Constructed in the likeness of its fire-breathing namesake, the Green Dragon Roll is a guaranteed conversation starter. Salmon roe and sliced octopus make up its eyes, eel-and-cucumber-stuffed maki rolls form the body, and avocado is fanned out for a tail. But don’t let the playful execution deter you from sampling one of Veekoo’s signature specialties.
The kitchen produces fragrant, affordable renditions of well-known Chinese, Szechuan and Thai dishes. The whole Long Island duck is a standout — slow roasted to tender perfection and served with paper-thin spring pancakes. The black-pepper-dusted rack of lamb is packed with heat and flavor, as is the flash-fried, crispy-skinned flounder with pine nuts and sweet-and-sour sauce.
Not just for sushi freaks, Veekoo is a well-rounded model of Asian excellence. 564 E. Lancaster Ave., Berwyn, (484) 318-7655, www.veekooasiancuisine.com.