Developers are keeping it local in Eagleview Town Center, where there’s an admirable commitment to lush, open spaces and independent spots like Al Pastor, Bella Vista and Brickside Grille. And with the recent addition of Suburban Restaurant and Beer Garden, Exton now has its Restaurant Row.
Suburban is the work of chef Eric Yost. The talented West Chester native’s experience includes Wyebrook Farm and a former partnership at Philly’s White Dog Cafe. He was also the personal chef for film director M. Night Shyamalan. At Suburban, he presents split culinary personalities. Off to one side, the Beer Garden has sturdy picnic tables made from reclaimed Lancaster barn planks, and its bar is lined with a phalanx of growlers. The high-energy atmosphere boasts small-batch beers from native crafters like Royersford’s Stickman Brews and Emmaus’ Funk Brewing.
On the other side, the Farmer’s Room showcases images of local food purveyors that Suburban supports. But these snapshots aren’t just for show. “It’s more than farm-to-table—it’s a social contract with my neighbors,” Yost says.
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Each dining area offers its own menu. The small beer hall tempts with tasty starters like fried cheese curds, pierogies, and panko-coated deviled eggs dolloped with porcini mousse. Sandwiches include pulled pork, Lebanon bologna with stout-spiked mustard, and a juicy Wyebrook Farm double-patty burger. Indulge in house-made pastas, and hand-cut fries loaded with hearty toppings like Swiss-y pastrami or braised short rib.
The abbreviated Farmer’s Room menu is more high-end. There, we enjoyed a satisfying Amish chicken pappardelle. The delicate house-made pasta strands were ribboned with shredded poultry in a distinctive ramp-almond pesto. A plate of mild Arctic char, atop sweet-pea-and-bacon spaetzle, was slicked with a bright comma of roasted-beet yogurt, and the lardon-studded beef-shoulder ragout was a tasty value at $21.
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The mixology at Suburban is also impressive, with each room’s bartenders displaying a deft hand with local spirits. They barrel-age the house rum for 15 days, atomize certain cocktails with absinthe spray, and even “smoke” their own stash of ice cubes with cinnamon and vanilla bean.
You’ll appreciate the outdoor seating area with two fire pits, but you may not dig the decibels in the Beer Garden during peak hours. And not being able to order a Beer Garden starter while dining in the more refined Farmer’s Room was a tease.
Nonetheless, there’s a marked commitment to quality at this exciting newcomer. The name may imply otherwise, but Yost has definitely tapped into the nuances of today’s hip city eatery—times two.
570 Wellington Square, Exton, (610) 458-2337, www.suburbanbg.com.
