Fia Berisha and Nick Elmi’s latest vision has taken flight at Ironworks at Pencoyd Landing, where twin elevators deliver diners to the top of the Marriott Residence Inn. The post-pandemic timing couldn’t be better. Lark offers sweeping rooftop views and next-level dishes brimming with texture, color and flavor.
Six levels up from sister restaurant the Landing Kitchen, Lark’s expansive rooftop space is marked by its light wood tones, bronze accents, plush forest-green fabrics and foiled wallpapers. Mirrors and floor-to-ceiling windows afford various glimpses of bridges, neighborhoods and the Schuylkill River. The outdoor deck provides its own stunning views.
Elmi’s impressive resume includes a 2014 win on Bravo’s Top Chef, a 2020 James Beard nomination, and two successful restaurants (Laurel and Royal Boucherie) in Philadelphia. He’s hired executive chef Michael Millon to execute his vision of a Mediterranean-themed menu tied to a tapas concept. The handmade pasta is exquisite, especially the toasted farro creste di gallo with pork ragu and Shepherd’s Basket cheese. And the roasted mushroom ravioli with foie gras thoroughly embraces its earthy vibe with hazelnut and pinecone syrup.
Other imaginative selections include sea urchin deviled eggs, red snapper tartare, escargot braise in vichyssoise butter, and strozzapreti with blue crab and pink peppercorns. The glazed duck breast is perfectly complemented by baby sweet potatoes, apricots, turnips and walnuts. And be sure to try the gnocco fritto—savory fried beignets stuffed with stracciatella and accompanied by thin slices of prosciutto and a mound of ricotta.
LARK Ironworks at Pencoyd Landing, 611 Righters Ferry Road, Bala Cynwyd, (484) 434-8766, larkpa.com
ATMOSPHERE: A short elevator ride leads to a stunning space that can get a bit noisy on weekends.
HOURS: Tuesday-Saturday 5-10 p.m.
ATTIRE: Classy casual.
EXTRAS: The view.