Keeping tabs on the West Chester dining scene these days can be a challenge. No less than five new spots have opened in the past few months alone—and if we had to pick a front-runner on the must-try list, it would be Jolene’s.
Now a firmly established culinary force in the region, 3 West Hospitality’s Josh McCullough has already revived the once-fading local institutions Jitters, Square Bar and Brickette Lounge. His first venture in the area, Slow Hand, continues to offer a classy, minimalist atmosphere and upscale gastro-pub fare. With Jolene’s, McCullough is giving West Chester foodies their first taste of authentic French cuisine since Gilmore’s closed in 2012.
McCullough took the name for his latest venture from his wife’s favorite cousin, a total “bad-ass” who embodies a bold yet feminine spirit. The restaurant is housed in the Spence Building, once a 19th-century oyster house and saloon. A sexy host station welcomes guests to a space defined by its buffed parquet floors, curved recessed ceilings, glistening chandeliers and smoky gold-plated mirrors. The suitably Impressionistic artwork is on loan from local collector Peter Mavrides. Refined shades of sand, moss green and soft peach complement the space well, and the caramel-colored leather banquettes and cane-back chairs nicely drive home the Parisian atmosphere.
Jolene’s GM Glennon Travis spent summers growing up in France. He now curates the first-class list of French wines at a bar that’s both sensual and moody. Inventive cocktails include the tequila-tinged La Polome, bourbon-based Le Smoking and vintage French 29 (topped with bubbly).
With his artful balance of color, texture and delicate placement, executive chef Craig Russell orchestrates a seasonal menu that’s classic with a modern twist. In the French tradition, diners can expect smaller portions that showcase quality over quantity. Our Regiis Ova Ossetra caviar was served over a shaped mound of ice surrounded by accoutrements. A half-dozen tender escargots came in a buttery, garlicy broth, and we both dipped our spoons (more than once) into the French onion soup—sweet and tender Vidalia slices in a Cognac broth topped with Gruyere. Additional stunners include the steak tartare (three mounds of diced beef tenderloin surrounded by a golden egg yolk), a perfectly executed duck breast, the bouillabaisse and the seared foie gras.
Topped with seasonal fruit, the crème brûlée with Madagascar vanilla was an exquisite curtain call. Though hard to pass up, the chocolate mousse will have to wait until next time.
Cost: $6-$140.
Atmosphere: Paris brasserie vibes.
Hours: 5 p.m.-midnight Tuesday-Saturday, closed Sunday-Monday.
Attire: Leave the jeans at home.
Jolene’s
29 E. Gay St., West Chester, (484) 947-5444
Website
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