This contemporary, French-forward restaurant is quickly converting escargot virgins into fanatics by ditching the garlic butter in favor of a more modern approach. Chef Clark Gilbert prepares his snails with red wine and imparts richness and texture with guanciale (unsmoked Italian bacon) and earthy shiitake mushrooms, finishing on a sweet note with hazelnuts. $12.
4161 Main St., (215) 487-1230, bisouonmain.com.