EPICURE: Mini-Review

The Girl Next Door

The Girl Next Door

Beer geeks of all varieties are rejoicing in the stellar tipples at Teresa’s Next Door. On tap: Two hand-pumped cask and 24 draft beers, plus more than a hundred bottled brews from 16 countries, set against a backdrop of shimmering goblets, flutes and tulip-shaped glassware for the ultimate beer-drinking experience.

Lead-footed Euro-pub grub such as fricadelles, meatballs simmered in wine, kaas frites (fried cheese), croque monsieurs, smoked pork flautas and mussels with pommes frites, mingle with burgers, wings and fingers, and eclectic sandwiches, salads and entrées.

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Crunchy-tender and salty-sweet, the scallop brochette, three well-fed scallops wrapped in bacon served with a mild lemon horseradish aioli, paired well with our Leffe Blonds and frites (yummy, but beware of inconsistency in temperature and crunch). Though light on anchovy-mustard kick, the accompanying rémoulade tempered our ketchup obsession.

Savory forkfuls of Arctic char, grilled leeks and stoemp (mashed) potatoes with onions, leeks and spices) hit the spot, but not the moule rouge. Less time in the steamer would’ve helped, but the meek tomato, basil, white wine and garlic broth failed to permeate the mollusks’ meat.

Overdressed for the season in heavy breading, the fried Gruyère, cheddar and mozzarella lacked any distinct nutty or creamy flair, and paled in comparison to a passing—and gorgeously bronzed— pork chop that left me with a bit of diner’s remorse.

The polished interior’s sleek woods, modern lighting and profusion of slate lend an upscale urban edge, and the “no smoke, no tube” policy is clutch. Space can get a little tight, so I’d recommend hunkering down at the bar or in one of the comfy booths. 24 N. Wayne Ave. (610) 293-9909.

Our Best of the Main Line & Western Suburbs Party is July 25!