House-smoked Scottish salmon//Photo by Tessa Marie Images
Nestled among mom-and-pop shops, upscale boutiques and the historic Ambler Theater, Dettera Restaurant and Wine Bar encourages intimate conversation with its overstuffed booths, a sleek serpentine bar, and a warm,country-club ambience. For six years, Jeffrey Power (Blackfish, Le Bec-Fin) has been the intuitive executive chef behind this progressive American cuisine.
From a menu that showcases plenty of beef, poultry, house-made pasta and artisan pizza, we opted for artistry with a comfortable twist and ordered the Spanish baby octopus starter. The sumptuous dish was layered with soft artichoke hearts and garlic confit, blending with the tang of pickled shallots atop a pool of charred-lettuce sauce. Vegetarian plates—like the Moroccan-spiced, red-wine-braised cauliflower with sautéed bok choy and roasted beets—were colorful and robust.
Save room for a small but powerful assortment of house-made desserts. The sculpted dulcey chocolate, with hazelnut and whipped coconut, was worth the wait. The bar has martinis, Manhattans, mimosas and more. The ample wine list and stellar selection of craft brews also score points.
129 E. Butler Ave., Ambler, (215) 643-0111.