Destination: Pottstown

We go “off the Line” to Funky Lil’ Kitchen.

Black radishes with toasted croûtes, butter and greens. (Photo by Jared Castaldi)Enjoying a meal at Funky Lil’ Kitchen is a lot like dining at your crazy college professor’s house (yes, the poet) and discovering that, while he may be a little, well, funky, he’s also a mean cook. With its black tables and chairs, exposed lightbulbs and purple walls covered with candid, super-size photos of customers’ dogs, this low-key boutique eatery is revered by critics for its seasonally inspired modern American menu.

Chef/owner Michael Falcone’s spring menu was brimming with flavors and textures—a flaky fish quesadilla paired with creamy coconut risotto, dried mango and bok choy slaw, and a lime crema; sautéed chicken livers with crispy Gorgonzola polenta, cherry-walnut salad and sriracha oil; juicy-pink pork loin with curry and red pepper yogurt, a mildly seasoned chickpea and scallion couscous, and arugula from Jack’s Farm (one of my favorite Chester County veggie purveyors). The duck leg confit was the best I’ve had in recent years. A homey collage of split-pea purée, mushrooms, peas, pea leaves, onions, thyme and pistachios offered a crunchy, sweet and savory contrast to the soft, dark meat and light, crisp skin.

The restaurant’s dessert selections are written on a wine bottle. The apple crumb arrived warm alongside a scoop of vanilla ice cream, and the pot de crème had chocolate-covered espresso beans and a snowy mound of fresh whipped cream to go with its rich dark-chocolate spoonfuls. Then there was the “Fool”—a decadent mix of banana, coconut and pistachios served in an 8-ounce cafeteria-style tumbler. Funky, indeed.

232 King St., Pottstown; (610) 326-7400,

Our Best of the Main Line Elimination Ballot is open through February 22!