Departure Restaurant & Lounge Serves Affordable, Elegant Fare in Media

Global cuisine meets airport lounge chic in Delaware County.

Rory and Krystal Hirst wanted the internationally inspired menu at their new eatery to be a “departure” from the typical dining experience. So naming the place Departure made perfect sense. In keeping with that theme, they sought out a location that conveyed a nostalgic airport vibe. They found it in a former bank building on South Orange Street across from the Delaware County Courthouse.

Lollipop lamb chops and a sleek exterior (right) ready for takeoff.
Lollipop lamb chops and a sleek exterior (below) ready for takeoff.

Rory’s design is unlike anything you’ll see in the region. Think mid- to late-century airport lounge—sleek and sexy, with low-level lighting, plush velvet upholstered banquettes and high-backed chairs. Travel-themed accessories include a classic arrival/departure airport flight board, large propellers, artistic metal sculptures of the world’s continents, and assorted maps.

Departure restaurant

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But don’t expect airline food at Departure. The owners promise a menu that’s always evolving, with a balance of more traditional fare and elevated new creations. Executive chef JJ Morgan offers tapas-style small plates that celebrate big flavors from around the world. Our three beef sliders came on brioche buns with caramelized onions, Cooper sharp cheese and a memorable secret sauce. A tasty honey-hoisin stir-fry with pork ribeye, peppers and onions paired well with shrimp fried rice.

Honey-hoison stir-fry
Honey-hoisin stir-fry

The tandoori chicken skewers had a nice smoky flavor but were a tad overcooked, and our mussels were well prepared but could’ve used more broth. Best were the tender lamb lollipops over a peppy chili-mint sauce and goat cheese hummus.

ahi tuna on rice crackers
Ahi tuna on rice crackers

For the cocktail set, the Black Sea Rittenhouse Rye with orange and chocolate bitters was downright decadent. The loungey, deep-purple Sake to Me Sake employs elderflower, lychee and plum for some international flair. A notable beer list stays true to the global theme, with German, Lebanese and Indian brands.

butternut squash soup
Butternut squash soup

With its efficient service, unique atmosphere and well-executed, affordable small plates, Departure has found a soft place to land in the region’s increasingly competitive culinary scene. Indeed, there’s something to be said for a menu with nothing over $18—and an experience that rivals pricier spots.

Lavender Martini
Lavender martini

Cost: $6-$18.
Atmosphere: Sleek retro-lounge vibes.
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday.
Attire: Casual.
Extras: Happy hour 4-6 p.m. Monday-Friday.

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Departure Restaurant & Lounge
2 S. Orange St., Media, (610) 502-3833

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