Rory and Krystal Hirst wanted the internationally inspired menu at their new eatery to be a “departure” from the typical dining experience. So naming the place Departure made perfect sense. In keeping with that theme, they sought out a location that conveyed a nostalgic airport vibe. They found it in a former bank building on South Orange Street across from the Delaware County Courthouse.

Rory’s design is unlike anything you’ll see in the region. Think mid- to late-century airport lounge—sleek and sexy, with low-level lighting, plush velvet upholstered banquettes and high-backed chairs. Travel-themed accessories include a classic arrival/departure airport flight board, large propellers, artistic metal sculptures of the world’s continents, and assorted maps.
But don’t expect airline food at Departure. The owners promise a menu that’s always evolving, with a balance of more traditional fare and elevated new creations. Executive chef JJ Morgan offers tapas-style small plates that celebrate big flavors from around the world. Our three beef sliders came on brioche buns with caramelized onions, Cooper sharp cheese and a memorable secret sauce. A tasty honey-hoisin stir-fry with pork ribeye, peppers and onions paired well with shrimp fried rice.

The tandoori chicken skewers had a nice smoky flavor but were a tad overcooked, and our mussels were well prepared but could’ve used more broth. Best were the tender lamb lollipops over a peppy chili-mint sauce and goat cheese hummus.

For the cocktail set, the Black Sea Rittenhouse Rye with orange and chocolate bitters was downright decadent. The loungey, deep-purple Sake to Me Sake employs elderflower, lychee and plum for some international flair. A notable beer list stays true to the global theme, with German, Lebanese and Indian brands.

With its efficient service, unique atmosphere and well-executed, affordable small plates, Departure has found a soft place to land in the region’s increasingly competitive culinary scene. Indeed, there’s something to be said for a menu with nothing over $18—and an experience that rivals pricier spots.

Cost: $6-$18.
Atmosphere: Sleek retro-lounge vibes.
Hours: 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday; closed Sunday.
Attire: Casual.
Extras: Happy hour 4-6 p.m. Monday-Friday.
Departure Restaurant & Lounge
2 S. Orange St., Media, (610) 502-3833
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