Francis Pascal’s Birchrunville Store Cafe still shares its circa-1850 structure with a working post office. And while that lends a certain quirky charm to its out-of-the-way Chester County location, it’s not the primary draw. For 25 years, this unassumingly unique BYOB has enjoyed a stellar reputation—so much so that scoring a table can still be a challenge.
The place maintains a Wednesday-Saturday schedule, with 38 seats inside and 16 on the front and back porches. Calling in advance is a must. “One of the best rewards I could ask for is that 98% of diners book their next reservation immediately after a meal,” says Pascal. “I have a great group of locals who keep returning for more.”
Though Pascal is confident, he’s not without a chef’s insecurities. “I could have an entire room of satisfied people in the restaurant, but if I have one person who’s unhappy with a dish, I focus on that,” he says.
Pascal came to the United States from France in 1989 as a sous chef under Nunzio Patruno at the Monte Carlo Living Room in Philadelphia. After two years, he set out on his own, opening Tartufo in Bala Cynwyd. By the time the opportunity arose to purchase the Birchrunville spot, he’d moved on from Tartufo and was working as a chef at various Main Line restaurants. It didn’t take long for him to snap it up. The area reminded him of the French countryside, and the somewhat outdated interior spoke to him.
To remedy the awkward kitchen logistics, Pascal transformed the space over six months. It remains comfortably rustic, with antiques and stained-glass accents scattered throughout. Large wooden tables and chairs are spaced far enough apart for easy conversation, and the outdoor dining space overlooks farmland and a small stream.
Pascal has fostered trust with his guests. Dinner menus are revealed the night they dine—and regulars seem to prefer it that way. He grows his herbs on the property, and all ingredients are fresh. Deliveries come daily. “I create dishes that I’d prepare for myself,” he says. “Many places cut corners to increase profit. I just can’t do that.”
Clean flavors and layered textures are the norm at Birchrunville, and presentations are simple and stylish. On the night we dined there, Pascal enhanced a vibrant beet risotto with grilled octopus. Tender seared Chilean sea bass was served over wasabi mashed potatoes in a pool of syrup made with cabernet sauvignon. Topped with roasted red and yellow baby beets and artisan greens, our light-pink goat cheese mousse starter was an eye-catching work of art. Other menu standouts have included lobster bisque with port wine and saffron, sliced kangaroo, and a Berkshire pork tomahawk rack.
And don’t leave without trying the popular mini butterscotch Bundt cake drizzled with caramel. You can also find this decadent dessert at the nearby Butterscotch Pastry Shop, owned by Pascal and his wife, Nui.
Cost: $15-$50; cash only.
Atmosphere: Countryside chic.
Hours: 6 p.m.-11 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday.
Attire: Smart casual.
Birchrunville Store Cafe
1403 Hollow Road, Birchrunville, (610) 827-9002
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