How’s this for a measure of success: Less than two years after finding an unlikely fanbase in tiny Thornton with Bierhaul Farmhouse, James Mullally and Loïc Barnieu are taking on tavern-saturated West Chester. It’s a homecoming of sorts for Mullally, especially when you consider the location. Eight years ago, he curated the exceptional cocktail and beer program at Split Rail Tavern before leaving to start his own project in 2021. Now, his Bierhaul Townhouse has taken over the Split Rail space.
“I had the Bierhaul name, idea and vibe in mind for a long time,” says Mullally. “To be fortunate enough to be able to do it twice is an opportunity I never thought I’d have.”
With its lighter wood tones and greenery, the refresh of the two-story space is brighter and airier. The indoor beer-garden concept (think communal seating) works well on the second level. An added sense of whimsy is evident in the offbeat mix of Star Wars themes (Mullally is a huge fan) and paintings by West Chester street artist Cassius King. Bierhaul Townhouse has also reinstated the Split Rail’s award-winning drag karaoke nights on Tuesdays.
When it comes to the food, both Bierhaul locations share the same menu, which includes a solid smash burger, a hearty lobster dip and three tasty variations on steamed mussels. For something lighter, try the excellent falafel salad, with sliced cucumber, fresh chickpeas, Arcadian Harvest lettuce and marinated cherry tomatoes. The 12-inch flatbreads are quite popular, and we’re partial to the wings, the flounder-based fish and chips, and a shepherd’s pie with Wagyu beef instead of lamb.
For what may be the best beer program in the borough, Mullally embraces both local and international brewers, whether its Media’s Sterling Pig or Germany’s Köstritzer Schwarzbierbrauerei. For those after the hard stuff, Bierhaul mixologists offer a fresh spin on the classic Old Fashioned, substituting mezcal for your typical bourbon, rye or blended whiskey. Their Asian spin on a gin and tonic is made with Japanese Roku Gin, elderflower tonic and rosemary. And the Jeopardy-themed, vodka-and-ginger-based Suck It Trebek is as much fun to ask for as it is to sip.
Cost: $10–$26.
Atmosphere: Casual.
Hours: Noon–midnight Monday–Tuesday and Thursday, noon–2 a.m. Friday–Saturday, noon–8 p.m. Sunday.
Attire: Casual.
Bierhaul Townhouse
15 N. Walnut St., West Chester, (717) 918-0868
Website
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